Shop vegetable, flower, native, pollinator, and cut-flower seeds at Herbein’s Garden Center. Our curated seed selection helps you grow fresh food, beautiful blooms, and pollinator-friendly gardens.
Purchase seeds in store or have them shipped directly to your door to start your garden with confidence.
Single Variety seed Packets
Vegetable Seeds
Flower Seeds
Herb Seeds
Need help starting your seeds? We got you covered! Check out our seed starting kits.
Mixes and Crop Cover
These seed blends are perfect for erosion control and soil health while also providing necessary foods for pollinators and wildlife.
Crop Cover
Meadow & Wildflower Mixes
Seeds FAQs
When should I start seeds indoors in the Lehigh Valley?
In Emmaus and the surrounding Lehigh Valley area, the average last frost date falls between April 15–30, placing us in USDA Hardiness Zone 6b. Most seeds should be started indoors 6–8 weeks before that window — meaning late February through mid-March is the ideal time to get your seeds going. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants benefit from the longer head start, while crops like cucumbers and squash do best started just 3–4 weeks before transplanting.
What's the difference between heirloom, hybrid, and open-pollinated seeds?
Heirloom seeds are open-pollinated varieties that have been passed down for generations (typically 50+ years). They produce plants whose seeds you can save and replant with the same results. Open-pollinated seeds are naturally pollinated by insects, wind, or other natural means, and are also seed-save friendly. Hybrid seeds (often labeled F1) are intentionally cross-bred for traits like disease resistance or higher yield, but seeds saved from them won’t reliably reproduce the parent plant. All three types have a place in the garden — it just depends on your goals!
How deep should I plant my seeds?
A general rule of thumb is to plant seeds at a depth of about 2–3 times their diameter. Tiny seeds like lettuce, basil, and snapdragons should barely be covered — just press them lightly into the soil surface. Larger seeds like beans, peas, and sunflowers go about 1–2 inches deep. Always check the seed packet, as depth requirements vary by variety and planting conditions.
Why aren't my seeds germinating?
The most common culprits are soil temperature, moisture, and seed age. Most vegetable seeds germinate best between 65–75°F — if your seed-starting area is too cool (like a cold basement), germination will be slow or fail entirely. Seeds also need consistent moisture but not waterlogged conditions. Additionally, old or improperly stored seeds lose viability over time. If you’re unsure about germination rates, try a simple paper towel test: wrap a few seeds in a damp towel, seal in a bag, and check in 5–10 days.
Can I direct sow seeds outside in the Lehigh Valley, and when?
Yes! Many crops do best when sown directly in the garden rather than transplanted. Cool-season crops like peas, lettuce, spinach, and carrots can be direct sown as early as late March to early April — even before the last frost. Warm-season crops like beans, squash, and corn should wait until after your last frost date (late April to early May in Emmaus). Soil temperature matters as much as the calendar, so a soil thermometer is a worthwhile investment.
What's the best seed-starting mix, and can I use regular garden soil?
We strongly recommend a dedicated seed-starting mix rather than regular garden soil or potting mix. Seed-starting mixes are finely textured, lightweight, and sterile — which promotes good germination and prevents “damping off,” a fungal condition that kills seedlings at the soil line. Garden soil is too dense for containers and can harbor pathogens and weed seeds. Look for a mix labeled specifically for seed starting, and avoid adding fertilizer until seedlings develop their first true leaves.
How do I harden off seedlings before transplanting them outside?
Hardening off is the process of gradually acclimating indoor-grown seedlings to outdoor conditions — sun, wind, and temperature fluctuations. Start about 7–10 days before your planned transplant date. On day one, set plants outside in a sheltered, partly shaded spot for just 1–2 hours, then bring them back in. Gradually increase outdoor time and sun exposure each day. By the end of the week, they should be able to handle a full day outdoors. Skipping this step can cause transplant shock and stunted growth, even in otherwise healthy plants.